Manna

Spend any longer than half an hour in pretty much any of the UK’s biggest cities and you’re almost certain to happen across a food hall. Generally, these places are gauche free-for-alls where any semblance of order has long been thrown out of the window. You waltz in, hungry and excited by the number of cuisines on offer, only to find yourself darting around like a moth in a dark room trying to find even 1 free seat. It’s like going to the Costco food court, except more dimly lit and often even less sanitary.

In the very centre of London though, sits a revolutionary answer to the food hall of the past: a serene, peaceful utopia called Arcade Food Hall. Yes, the option to rock up with no reservation still exists. But for those of us who don’t fancy finding a referee for a game of rock-paper-scissors against a banker, all just to decide who gets the one free perch in the entire building, you can simply go online and book yourself a table. Even if it’s just for you.

It’s worth going, too. Because tucked away in this foodie haven, is Manna.

It’s the brainchild of the man also behind the incredibly popular Bake Street, chef and food writer Feroz Gajia, which for those who’ve had the pleasure of visiting should be more than enough encouragement to make the trip to Manna. Bake Street has long been one of London’s favourite brunch-spot gems, and its famed weekend menu – featuring Nashville hot chicken sandwiches, lamb birria tacos, and a simple smash burger – provided somewhat of a template for what Manna ended up becoming, and it brought people in from all over the city and further.

“The core of Manna is simplicity. Simple, delicious burgers and fried chicken. The dishes feel like something you have had before, they are comforting, never disappointing.”

Manna founder Feroz Gajia to Feed The Lion

The Nashville hot chicken is a favourite of many but at its heart, Manna is a burger joint. A countertop surrounds the small kitchen and when you arrive at Arcade, you’ll want to sit close by. Alright, you have to order your food on your phone by scanning a QR code rather than actually talking to a person, but the overall experience is as close to a proper classic American hamburger joint as I’ve found in the UK. Sit at the counter itself, and watch as your hamburger is made.

I suggest going for the Single Manna Platter. You get a simple classic smash burger, a generous portion of waffle fries, one Nashville hot chicken tender, and some pickles on the side for £15. In central London, that is daylight robbery.

These may be the world’s crispiest waffle fries. They’re excellent and they’re perfectly seasoned. The Nashville hot chicken tender was faithful to its origins, not so hot that it causes long-lasting pain while still being hot enough to not cause an international incident. But this isn’t Fried Chicken Britannia.

As far as hamburgers go, this is as no-frills as it gets. It’s a small one patty burger, topped with American cheese, mustard, ketchup, mayo, pickles, and diced onions. It’s not tall, it’s not intimidating. An untrained eye may even mistake it for your everyday McDonalds cheeseburger. Until they eat it.

The bun is a lightly-toasted shiny brioche, and it’s gloriously soft after getting briefly steamed on the grill before being served. The beef is perfectly smashed, and a melting dome on the flattop means that the American cheese turns gooey and seeps into the crevices left by the smashing of the patty. I’m generally not a ketchup fan when it comes to hamburgers (it’s too sweet), but the mixture of that alongside a generous helping of mustard and the creamy mayo almost creates a different sauce altogether. The overall taste from the first bite will leave you completely forgetting that you’re eating a simple hamburger.

It’s got everything you wish for from a smashed patty: still juicy in the centre, but with those crumbly, lacy edges. Snap some pieces off and treat yourself to tiny slivers of caramelised goodness because the flavour held in them is truly unbelievable.

The smash burger revolution has been a bittersweet one. Their popularity has led to them becoming much more available and, for those of us who’ve always loved them, this is great news. But as with anything, once the quantity increases it’s very difficult to maintain a good level of quality. Add in the fact that they’re super simple to make, and yes there may be more smash burger joints around these days. But a lot of them just aren’t very good. Manna is not that, though. It’s an excellent hamburger, one that you’ll be thinking about for days, maybe even weeks, afterwards.

There’s just one significantly disappointing thing to note about a hamburger from Manna. It’s so good that after just a few quick bites – it’s a pretty small burger – you’ll notice it’s almost all gone.

Never fear. Just get another. Trust me, it’s worth it.

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Manna Burgers mannaburgers.co.uk
Location: Arcade Food Hall, 103-105 New Oxford St, London, WC1A 1DB
Price: £15 for the Single Manna Platter (smash burger, waffle fries, one Nashville hot tender, pickles)
While you’re there: We’re all about the hamburgers, but don’t neglect Manna’s chicken. Get the platter so you can sample a Nashville hot chicken tender alongside your smash burger!